There was everything from dance and singing performances to the drag show by Not Enof Words Dearlife, where artist Bori pulled his wig off his head at the end. #whysocerealz! turned the whole presentation into a performance with dance and drama - includin

Fall/Winter 2023-24 Fashion Month saw designers looking back to the past to create a new fashion futures. Memories from youth and childhood, life experiences and remembrances from home were reimagined for a new era. Combined with digital world elements and metaverse inspired aesthetics, these modern interpretations of womenswear classics offered a fresh take on many house’s established codes.

Jil Sander

Luke and Lucie Meier of Jil Sander looked back to their 90s and 2000s formative years and the sense of positivity and openness that defined the period. The house’s tailoring codes were reinvented to incorporate street and sports references with motorcycle reinforcements, pocketed vests, and expandable trousers that volumized silhouettes. Delicate floral dresses and airy parachute shapes were contrasted with chunky sneaker boots and tough metal flower hardware. Digitally printed fruit and bonbon motifs applied to tees, tunics and bags introduced a playful and optimistic note to the collection.

Roksanda

Roksanda Ilincic’s collection drew inspiration from her past travels and study of female dressing across cultures as well as her own Serbian roots. Eastern European folk informed needle punched blanket coats and bisected trouser suits that wrapped upward to create abstract head coverings and scarves. Satin dresses came adorned with integrated adaptable trains. Heading to Japan, conceptual and sculptural 3D forms supported by curvilinear tubes rounded out the show, inspired by the work of the artist Atsuko Tanaka.

Acne Studios

Acne Studio’s Jonny Johansson went back to his childhood in Northern Sweden with a collection that referenced fantastical storytelling and enchanted woodland worlds seen through an urban lens. Against a backdrop of crochet blooms and crystal draped trees, leather pants and jackets that were painted to look like white birch bark, whilst moss green knits were studded with unravelling flower trims or leaf motifs. Pieces combined handcrafting with the hyperreal aesthetic of digital fashion, with and real-world practicality coming through in a selection of wool coats and oversized cut blazers.