Men’s Fashion Month Top Collections Fall/Winter 2023-24

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at the top menswear collections featured during Fall/Winter 2023-24 Fashion Month.

Fall/Winter 2023-24 Fashion Month saw designers take the opportunity to explore and push the boundaries of menswear. Gender boundaries continued to be blurred with the increasing fusion classically feminine codes inserted within men’s pieces. A sense of playfulness and the nostalgia of youth underpinned many collections, combining to bring a heightened sense of self expression into menswear.

Acne Studios

Creative Director Jonny Johansson, sought to break the rules of traditional masculinity with a collection that blended the hyper-masculine and ultra-feminine. Using the starting point of the caveman, rugged mannish looks provided the basis for introducing feminine contrasts. Second skin T-shirts and leather biker pants were juxtaposed against sheer lace and shearling whilst daywear pieces were woven into experimental eveningwear to usher in a new age of expression for men.

JW Anderson

Also engaging in conversations around gender, JW Anderson considered the nature of ‘packaging’ humans or giving them with a specific label. Models in underwear, waiting to be ‘packaged’ into garments were followed by ruffled shorts, minidresses and skirts, all modelled by men. Pillow inserts in sweaters, trousers detailed with exaggerated loops and the revival of the frog Wellington boot in clog from, introduced a sense of subversive nostalgia and playfulness.

Louis Vuitton

Menswear was reconsidered at Louis Vuitton, this time blending sport and streetwear references that have become staples of the contemporary wardrobe. Casual tracksuits, hoodies and trainers were given the same respect as the atelier suit. A collaboration with Colm Dillane of Kidsuper introduced his childlike paintings into patchwork and jacquards spliced into formal tailoring and athleisure pieces, continuing Virgil Abloh’s legacy of cherishing ones inner child.